Using Our New SUNNEN HONING Machine! | Making a D10 Dozer Barrel | Part 2
how you going guys Kurtis from Cutting Edge
engineering so today's job is part two of making the new barrel for the d10 blade lift
cylinder if you missed part one there'll be a link in the description below where we disassembled the
barrel reclaim the trunnion mount and made some new standoffs so before I can weld these parts
onto the new barrel I need to get it set up in the lathe and turn down the OD the piece of material
we're going to be using it is a piece of six and a quarter by seven inch pre-honed tube and it is
about 1800 mil long so because it is pre-honed we still have a bit of material to remove out of
the inside which is going to be perfect when we weld on the trunions and everything shrinks
we'll be able to hone this to exact size so I don't need to turn the entire length
of the barrel down I only need to turn up to where the trunnion mount finishes so that is
about a meter what I need to do is I need to get as close to the tail stock chuck as possible in
order to get that cut done where I can't use my standard tooling to get right beside the chuck
so what I'm going to use I'm going to use a left hand tool holder I'm going to machine this
area close to the chuck and then I will change back to my right hand tool holder and then I will
machine the rest of the way up the barrel by doing it like that I'm going to avoid doing multiple
setups where I would have to cut a steady band set up a steady take this tail stock out of
the way do a little bit of machining and then pretty much move it all down the machine doing
it like this it's one setup and I can just get the job completed so I only need to take about
half a mil off the OD in order for the trunnion to fit onto the barrel because we're only going
halfway the weld from the trunnion mount is going to sort of blend that in but it's not going to
change the look of the barrel or how it works righto guys so I'm having a few issues
with this piece of material the OD of it is a little bit all over the place so I
would have to remove far too much material in order to get it to clean up and that is
just not going to work out for this job so I've called my supplier they've already
cut me a new piece of material they've sent it down to me I've got that set up
in the lathe so now we can keep on going righto so we've got the barrel turned down
we ended up removing about half a mil overall and now the trunnion and the head flange
fit perfectly what I'm doing up here at the tail stock is I'm using some aluminum
flashing to space the head flange back from the end of the barrel just enough so I've got
material I can face off once it's been welded I've got the head flange alignment mark in
position so I don't need to move the barrel anymore but what I am going to do I'm going
to use two clamps just to hold the head flange against the tail stock chuck so these shims don't
fall out while I'm trying to set up the trunnion oh 967 that's perfect now that we've got those tacked on we
can take it out of the lathe and take it over to our welding area and get it welded out right righto guys so we've finished welding the barrel
we've got our head flange welded on and our trunnion mount so what I need to do
now is I need to weld on the standoffs but I didn't actually take any notice on where
they go and the reason for that is I have a jig right guys so the barrel's cooled down now so
what the standoffs do they have a few different purposes the four standoffs on the top of the
barrel they are used for holding a guard that protects the drop valve on top of the cylinder
the rest of the standoffs down the barrel can be used for holding on the solid hydraulic
pipe that runs from the drop valve down to the cylinder gland so it doesn't vibrate while the
machine is in operation and the rest of them could be used for such things as wiring harnesses or if
there's another attachment that's been put on top of the cylinder so now that that's cooled down we
can take it over to the lathe we need to face off the head flange cut a chamfer on the inside of
the barrel and then we can set it up for honing righto guys now that we've got
the head flange faced off and a chamfer cut on inside of the barrel we can now take it out of the
lathe and take it over and set it up in our hone if this is George who's that who's that [chirp] right let's see if we can attract this one that one makes a different sound [angry chirps] oh [squawk] I don't know who's who I think this is the original
that's the original George that's someone else yeah that's Cornelius you've had enough fatty so what I need to do I need to get the chain
clamp set the clamps at the moment are a really good distance apart to support the barrel so I
don't need to move them I just need to adjust the height to suit the outer diameter of the barrel
so then the barrel is central to the spindle the Sunnen handbook does come with that information
so it just tells you a height from the bottom of the clamp down to the head plate very easy to do
it's undoing one bolt and turning the clamp down so the height of the clamps is not super critical
within a mil or so is going to be fine the honing head does have a universal joint on it so
it will take up any variation in height in the barrel but if you have them too far out of whack
it'll wear the stones out very unevenly so you may notice the honing machine is dirty and that is
because I have done one job in it which was also the day I did my training so I was lucky enough to
do that training with one of the leaders in honing in Australia he's been in the industry for a very
long time and he has so much knowledge that I need to learn so it is only my second job I won't
be supervised on this one let's see how we go we've got the barrel clamped in place now so
you don't need to put a great deal of tension on the actual chain clamp because the jaws are
serrated so they will bite into the barrel the clamps are really well designed you don't want
to throw a handle on there and try and tighten them right down as much as you can exert
on them with one hand is more than enough so what we need to do to start with we need
to home the machine so we need to send the carriage all the way to the other end so that
way the machine essentially has its zero point now that the machine's been homed what we need
to do is start setting up the rest of it I do have to put in the barrel parameters so the
barrels diameter and its length once we've done that we can then bring the carriage all the way up we will fit the honing head to it with the extensions on it and then we can set a start and a stop position because this barrel has got a big welded area
in the middle of it where the trunnion is and a couple of the standoffs it is going to be
the tightest part of the barrel so that is the first area I need to hone in order to keep
everything else straight and I'm not overloading the machine so if I was just to run this back
and forward from the beginning to the end of the barrel I would wear out stones quickly and I
wouldn't get the center honed to size so once that tight spot's been honed out of it we can then
start honing the entire length of the barrel so we're only going to be running the honing oil
from one end of the barrel if you try and run it from both ends you don't really remove material it
sort of just sits in the bottom so run it from one end and it gets pushed and pulled through the
barrel with the honing stones so we're ready to start honing now one of the awesome things
about this machine is you give it the parameters of the barrel so the barrels inside diameter
and its length and it will then calculate the correct feed rate and the correct RPM in order
to hone that barrel out on the screen there is a spindle load which is set at 50 percent that is for
when the machine is in full auto and it will automatically expand the hone head itself while
it's running because we don't want to do that because there are tight spots in the barrel we
are going to run it manually and we'll be doing all the stone advancements by the spin wheel up
on the carriage so I can control how much load is put on the stones and then once we get the barrel
running true we can set it into full auto and the machine will just carry on doing its thing
so the first set of stones I'm going to be using in the barrel are going to be a set of 47 so they
are a 150 grit stone and the 47s are quite hard so they will take a bit of punishment when it comes
to uneven barrels tight spots from being welded or a unhoned barrel so we'll get that barrel around
and then we can then change out to something else what I'm going to do is I'm going to lower the
stroke rate and lower the RPM so it doesn't start off so aggressively and then once we
start to see the load meter coming back to a more neutral position we can then start
to increase things back to where they were so we've got the machine set for cycle times
of two and a half minutes because these are aggressive stones you don't want to go and over
cut the areas around the tight spots so I do use the joystick just to move it forward and backward
inside the tight spot so I take the material out of there after each cycle I will do a quick
visual inspection to see what's going on and then I will reset it for another two and a half
minutes with the load meter on the machine it does read from 0 to 100 if it is in the higher
area of that scale it generally means that's a tight spot or you are running it with maximum
pressure on the stones but ninety percent of honing work from what I've done has been by sound
so you listen to what the machine's doing it will tell you whether there's high spots or
hollows so we've done about four cycles now we've got the barrel sounding pretty good down
inside the load meter has settled down a lot so what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring
the spindle speed back up to where it was and then the stroke speed back up to where it was
we'll let it run for maybe one or two cycles and then we can then qualify the rest of the
barrel and see what other tight spots we have now the machine's been working for a little while you can
see how the oil tank works so as the oil flows off the bed it goes onto the filter
paper and that catches all of the metal and the stone material and then the oil passes
through it so I also use metal magnetic parts trays underneath the ends of the barrel
where the oil is falling into and that also helps catch some of the metal filings and
material so what I'm going to do is I'm going to qualify the rest of the barrel so I
will set a new start and a new stop position and then we can go through the barrel and
see what other tight spots we have so I've got my new start and stop position set
on the machine so now I'm going the full length of the barrel what I'm going to do now I'm going
to run the machine very slowly I will lower my feed rate and I will lower my spindle speed and
I can watch the load meter to see what the rest of the barrel is doing so as it's cycling I can
work out the tight spots and then once we get the barrel running true and it's round we can
then set the machine to full auto increase the feed rate and the RPMs of the spindle and
let the machine start to remove material while the machine is running on manual I don't just have to
use the hand wheel I do have a bump feed button I can use to advance the stones I also
have a dwell button on the screen which means I can stop the carriage at any position
while the honing stones are still spinning so our 47 stones are dead we're going to
change them out for a new set of 45s they are also 150 grit stone but they are a little bit
softer so they are excellent for metal removal overall there's about a mil of material to be
removed out of this barrel to get it to its finished size so what I can do now I can set the
machine on auto I can leave its five minute cycle times running and I can go and do something
else while the machine does its thing so with this horizontal honing machine there is no
need for me to rotate the barrel while the honing process is happening the honing head and the
extension bar are not heavy enough to over cut the bottom of the barrel during the honing process I
will use my dial bore gauge to check the ID of the barrel and take measurements at both ends and I'll
also be checking the temperature of the barrel just with my hand to make sure things aren't
getting too hot because if the barrel gets too hot while I'm honing the oil thins out the stones
gum up and we don't actually cut out any material with a barrel this size I will need to change out the stones three to four times
during the roughing operation righto guys so I've measured the bore we have got less
than .01 of a mil to remove to bring it to size the dial bore gauge doesn't reach all the way down
the inside of the barrel we are sort of relying on the load meter on the machine to tell us what
the center of the barrel is doing at the moment the load meter is sitting very neutral it's not
bouncing so that's going to be pretty concentric pretty consistent measurement all the way down I
have actually ordered a long bore gauge set but with worldwide shortages it hasn't arrived yet so
at the moment we just making do with what we've got now what I need to do is remove the roughing
stones put in the finishing stones we're going to run them for a couple of minutes and this barrel
is going to be done so the finishing stones we're going to be using they are a j87 they're a 400
grit stone they are quite fine compared to our roughing stones and they are going to give us the
surface finish we need for this cylinder barrel right oh guys so all the honing is now
complete on our barrel I'm really happy with the surface finish we've achieved
in there so what I'm going to do is I'm going to prop up one end to let all that oil
drain out the next thing I need to do I need to start making the new barrel end out of this
piece of material but you'll have to stay tuned for part three hope you all enjoyed seeing our
honing machine in action thanks for watching how you going guys kurtis from Cutting Edge engineering
so to ugh [ __ ] me hmmm are you ready yep Ready yeah are you ready yeah righto oh [ __ ] how do we start that so the way I've got this set up at the moment
hmmmm so I'm going to use what is this where'd you start from I've already lost it
oh my God whoop oh these are really crunchy [giggle] why what is it
it's [ __ ] three of em three what oh if only the crane went all the way oh if ONLY it went all the way but it stops there don't say righto guys because you've just said
righto guys over there just I got it okay all right ready yeah okay so you UGH pft so the clamps are a really ugh really really really
[giggle] mmm English mm WORDS [giggle] complete them right righto so we are nearly ugh mm are you ready yeh we're ready to start honing the beauty oh hmmm so oh [ __ ] where was I what's doing mmm oop 500 minutes Jesus okay wait move your shape box this is Kurtis's idea [giggle] I thought it was great
be interesting what this footage turns out like be [ __ ] dizzy watching it
[Laughter] ohhhh right oh my gawd you ready yup woaah [Laughter] and I'll also be walking down the barrel
having oh [ __ ] having a feel of it [giggle] right oh guys so our barrel is near ugh [ __ ] who's this right wait where we going
oh my god [giggle] too close right oh guys so the uh [ __ ]
oh my God [giggle] it's a Friday what do you expect
[ __ ] Fridays are you ready
no [Laughter] [whistle] dry mouth [pop] nom nom nom who's that [happy chirps] hey [squawks]
