Repair TRUNNION for Caterpillars BIGGEST Dozer! | Milling & Welding

Repair TRUNNION for Caterpillars BIGGEST Dozer! | Milling & Welding

how you going guys Kurtis from Cutting Edge 
engineering today's job we have two d11 blade   lift barrels in for repair these barrels are 
off a d11 dozer and it is caterpillar's biggest   bulldozer they manufacturer and what these 
do these lift and lower the blade while the   machine is in operation and if you remember from 
last week's video where we repaired the yolks the   yolks attach onto these cylinders so if you can 
imagine the barrel standing vertically on the   dozer the forks of the yoke go underneath the 
trunnion mount there are two caps that then go   over the trunnion mounts and get bolted onto the 
yoke they're not off the same machine but they do   belong to the same customer so these aren't in to 
be re-barreled these are in to have their trunnion   mounts repaired these mounts are always going to 
wear out because it is metal on metal contact you   can fit grease nipples to these joints in order 
to aid with lubrication but it's just the nature   of the way things work and what the machine is 
doing they are going to wear out so there are   bearings that then get fitted onto the trunnion 
mounts they are a sacrificial piece of material   that is supposed to wear out but over time the 
trunnion mounts do shrink in size because of the   constant hammering and the bearings just don't 
fit anymore they end up falling off and that's   what's happened here but these went a little bit 
further than they were supposed to and they are   quite worn out and something I did notice these 
have actually been repaired before and the reason   I can tell that is there is centers in the end of 
the trunnion mounts that is not a factory thing   that is done from someone doing the exact same 
repair we're about to do trying to set up off   a surface that isn't round anymore or you've just 
welded can be quite difficult so putting a center   in each end of the trunnion mounts it's really 
going to help with setup and it's also going to   help for the next guy that has to repair them so 
you may have seen in a previous video where we've   done trunnion mount repairs before and that was 
because we were doing a complete cylinder rebuild   so the cylinder was completely disassembled and 
we were able to spin the trunnion in the lathe   between centers but in this case because it's 
still attached to the barrel we can't do that   so ideally you would set these up in a machine 
like a horizontal borer where you can access   both sides after turning around the table I don't 
have a horizontal borer yet and I cannot use the   Kitchen and Walker because it is still a work 
in progress so we're just going to have to do   these in our milling machine so we're going 
to be using our shopmade v-blocks that have   a key in the bottom of those so they locate into 
the table I will then use an edge finder to find   the center of the V blocks which will save 
me trying to find the center of the barrel because of the shape of the trunnion and how tall everything is
I am going to have to use one two three blocks in order   to pack the barrel off the V blocks so 
the trunnion is not sitting on the table and because they are all machined surfaces   the barrel will automatically 
find the center of the v-blocks if you're wondering why I don't 
have a v-block set up on each side of the   trunnion mount that is because this side of the 
cylinder tube is actually a larger diameter than   that side so the bottom end is machined down 
for the trunnion to slip over it when it is   manufactured they do not machine the top side so 
it is slightly bigger in diameter and if I was   to have a v-block on this side the barrel would 
essentially be sitting a little bit on the piss so now I'm just going to use an 
alignment center in order to pick   up on the center point that has been 
drilled into the end of the trunnion and that's just how easy it is to 
get a barrel in the center line of   the machine when the trunnion mount 
has that center hole drilled into it   now that's in alignment we're going to 
tighten up the clamp so nothing can move the tool we're going to be using is our 
adjustable boring head it does have the   external part of it so we can go on the 
outside of a job and the insert we're   going to be using is a ccgt so I know 
that does look a little bit shop made   I did have to cut and turn the end of the 
tool holder because I didn't have the right   one for another job and it just happens 
to work out perfectly for this one too need a bit more off right so that cleaned up 
I ended up removing about a mil off   the outer diameter but there's not 
quite enough material been removed   in order to put a substantial thickness of 
a weld layer there so I am going to reduce   it just a little bit more so the weld 
layer will end up a little bit thicker so yes you could just weld this up and 
machine it back to spec but in my opinion   that is cutting a corner I prefer to 
machine down that surface so everything   is nice and round again and I remove all of 
that dirty material and then I put a fresh   layer of well material there before machining 
it back to spec that way you have one material   around the entire diameter and you don't 
run into hard spots or you don't have a   mixed match in materials and their tensile 
strengths so that's why I do it this way right so I've got the OD turned to size 
before I flip it over I am going to fix up the   hole that's been drilled into the end of the 
trunnion mount because whoever did it before   me did not use a center drill he just used a 
jobber drill using a center drill it's much   easier to get them in alignment so we'll 
clean that up and then we can turn it over so I'm about to flip this it's going to be really 
easy to set it up because I do have center holes   in the end of my trunnions if you don't have 
center holes there are other ways you can do it   one of those methods is using the bolt holes on 
the head flange and a level screw the two bolts   into the head flange sit a level across the top 
of it take the reading on what it is you also use   a tape measure from the head flange back to the 
center point of your tool and when you flip it   over as long as you get the measurements matching 
up and the level matching up it's going to be good another repair option would be
you could machine the mounts down undersized machine up a custom sleeve to then take
the place of the original bearing   but that's not how I like to do things I like to put all   components back to an oem specification that way 
if anyone is to purchase this machine later on or   another repair needs to be done they can simply 
purchase OEM parts off the shelf and don't have   to worry about getting anything custom made 
or modified to get their machine back to work righto guys so that is the other side 
machined it didn't fully clean up because   there was a fair bit of wear in that particular 
area so rather than cut the entire diameter down   just to clean that up I'm going to grind 
that area there and I'll just put a little   bit of heavy weld in that spot if I was to 
machine it down so it cleaned up that would   mean a lot more welding around the entire 
diameter and that's just not necessary so   we'll get this out of the machine and 
get the other one up to the same stage so that's our second one done we're going to take   them over to our welding area 
and get them set up for welding right oh so there's a couple of ways I can 
weld these up I can put them flat on a pallet   and weld horizontally across the mount or 
I can stand it up on the trunnion mount   and then walk around it and weld it up but 
this time I want to try something different so ideally having this in a more vertical 
position and me standing in front of it   would be perfect but the machine is struggling 
a little bit to rotate it around because one   end is slightly heavier than the other 
rather than break the machine I'm just   going to weld it the way it is I'm going 
to use the forklift tyne as a steady for   my hand to rest on and I have an extra 
long handpiece for my MIG welder so I   can stand out of the way this can spin and 
we'll get a nice even well build up so the wire we're going to be using it is er70 S6
copper free we will be backing that up   with Argo Shield Universal which is 80 percent Argon
10 percent CO2 and 10 percent oxygen   we're running that at around 20 volts 
and about 4.7 meters of wire a minute righto so that actually went really 
really well although it might have   looked uncomfortable it was actually not too 
bad so let's crack on with the rest of them righto so that is our second trunnion fully 
welded using the positioner is definitely   a good way of getting consistency in the 
weld layer I would imagine doing a d10 or   a D9 would be a lot more comfortable and 
a little bit easier because they are a   shorter barrel so these are far too hot to 
machine at the moment we're going to give   them a couple hours to cool down and then we 
get them set back up in the mill go outside ready hey whose a good boy good boy go on on your bed righto guys so the welding has cooled down 
enough we can get the first barrel set back   up in the milling machine and then we can 
start machining the OD to suit the bearing so we are aiming for a 0.1 interference 
fit our finish size is going to be 88.53   which will give us our 0.1 Crush so I'm 
going to take a roughing cut so I can get   a measurement so we can then determine how 
much I need to remove to suit the bearing righto so after our first roughing cut we landed at
93.8 mil so we've still got about five mil   to come off because the tool is hanging 
so far out of the boring head I'm going   to take each pass at half mil depth of cut 
which is one mil overall if I tried to go   anymore I would probably end up breaking 
an insert and getting too much chatter so I'm about to do my final cut but before 
I go and adjust the boring head to the final   dimension I am going to take a spring pass 
because the tool is hanging out so far it   can cause tool deflection so rather than over 
cut it or undercut it I'm just going to take   a spring pass at its last dimension I 
will run it down the job a little bit   to clean up the surface then I can take 
my measurement and adjust it from there our current measurement is 88.72 
we do need to remove about 0.15   of a mil in order to bring it 
to the crush size for our bush righto so our final dimension come 
out spot on I'm really happy with that   what I'm going to do now is change out 
the tool so I can put a chamfer on the   top edge which will act as a lead for the 
bearing to be fitted onto the trunnion mount   and then I'm going to flip it over and 
get the other side up to the same stage righto guys so that is the machining completed on 
our first barrel I still need to clean up   the radius in the bottom corner of the 
trunnion mount but I can't do that with   the milling machine I don't have the right 
tooling so I will end up doing that with a   poly curve wheel on a grinder so let's get this 
one out of the machine get the second one set up and I've gone ahead and completed the 
machining on the second barrel as well   with all of that done I can now grind 
up the barrels and install the bearings because we can't shrink down the trunnion 
mounts with liquid nitrogen we do need to   expand the bearing in order to get 
them to fit so using an oven is a   nice controlled way to get an even heat 
throughout the entire bearing and while that's heating up we're going 
to clean up the bottom radius around the   trunnion mounts we're going to be using 
a wheel called a poly curve sandpaper   goes all around the edge of the wheel and 
they're really good for cleaning up welds   for handrails and lots of other things they're 
just a very handy wheel for this sort of work righto so I've tried that twice and it's just not going on 
to the trunnion mount so I'm going to   give it a little bit of help using 
the oxy and LPG it's not going to   take much to expand it just a little bit 
further so it'll just slip straight on so that's this one completed unfortunately the 
customer only supplied us two bearings there   is supposed to be four in order to do both of the 
barrels we don't keep them in stock so we're just   going to grind up the other barrel ready to go 
and the customer will fit the bearings themselves right oh guys so the job is done for about a day's 
work this has been a very economical solution for   our customer and this repair should last as long 
as the genuine parts would providing they keep up   with their preventative maintenance and change 
out these bearings when they do wear out these   components should last the life of the Dozer so 
that's another job done thanks for watching right you ready yeah ready yep you ready sure 
ready yeah just and and what wait how am I starting that
wait what how'd you start that ummm hmmm ohh [ __ ] meee [ __ ] where'd I go with that what the [ __ ] did I call that wait for the train to [ __ ] off it's [ __ ] off but in my opinion that is 
a half-assed job that is cutting a corner   [air compressor] I'll put a bit of a heavier 
weld layer there and then [air compressor again] I'll put a bit of a ugggh I'll pita uh pit
I'll pita ohhh PIT [laughter] what
[Karen] hang on that got confusing so [brain offline] [Karen] I need 10 years to edit this I'm just gonna say it all again
okay ready yeah [ __ ] yeah that was it size matters [tick tock tick tock] [DING] [GASP]
[wheezing laugh] [sigh] [BANG] ohhhh [gasp] [Karen went to church] [Karen] what the hell it's not on there [giggle] [Karen whispers] looks like a face [giggle] [Karen whispers] he's looking for this [Karen] what color
purple [Karen] how long
a metre [Karen] so you mean this one
that's the one [laughter] [giggle]
can you see OH [laughter]

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